Soil Creation

Soil Creation By Quintillion, Mage of the Green Order of the Forest

The purpose of this textbook is to teach farmers how to create new soil for use in farming in areas where soil has been depleted or is gone entirely. The student will learn how to create and use soil in these areas.

Soil is not just "dirt." It is exceptionally valuable material and quite complex in its character. It is the foundation of life on land, for it is needed for most land plants to grow, and animals depend on plants to survive. Soil is composed of small particles of vegetable matter, invariably mixed with bits of sand and minerals, moisture, and tiny insects.

Composting is best accomplished by using a large wooden container, such as a barrel, into which small punctures have been made to allow in air and moisture. The barrel is filled partway with organic plant materials such as fruit rinds, dead grasses or leaves, rotted or insect damaged crops, and the like. A little soil is sprinkled on this plant matter and several worms and beetles are added, and the barrel is covered. As additional plant materials are obtained they may be added. It's helpful to turn the barrel every few weeks to mix the contents. It's also helpful to shade the barrel from direct sunlight in areas that are dry, and to add a few ounces of water if pressing a finger into the mixture reveals it is dry. Decomposition will not proceed without moisture.

Avoid the use of wood as a composting material; cellulose breaks down very slowly in comparison to other plant materials. Avoid using animal flesh, as decomposing animal flesh can yield disease. Your first useable soil should be ready in a year, perhaps two, depending on the materials available and how readily they will decompose.

Students will be given a small quantity of rich Ferrell soil upon graduation to take home with them for their first composting project, as well as a few beetles and worms. These creatures will multiply in the compost barrel and help immensely with decomposition into soil.

Freshly composted soil may be added to areas that already have soil, to thicken and enrich it for better crop yields. But it is also possible to use freshly composted soil in areas where there is no soil at all. First place the soil over the area to be renewed. Cover with thick cotton webbing. In time, the cotton will decompose and add to the soil, but for now it will be needed to hold the soil in place and help avoid over drying. Be sure not to spread the soil too thinly; a small area covered to a depth of about two inches will yield better results than a larger area more thinly covered. Where possible, choose land that is shaded, and plant ground-loving shrubs that will, with their roots, hold the soil in place and add their own shade. Be sure to add worms and beetles. Keep the plot lightly watered, according to the needs of the plants chosen. Be watchful for the effects of erosion; do not place plots in obvious gullies or places where runoff will damage them.

The methods described herein are best applied in developing small garden plots which are tended frequently. Apply crop selection and rotation methods as explained in other texts for best results.

Though results may seem painfully slow, a healthy plot of soil can be slowly expanded with these methods, year after year, until quite significant food production can be obtained.